THE SPHOLA STUPA IN THE KHYBER
Buddhism flourished in Gandhara area between 2nd century BC and 5th century AD. Gandhara includes the Peshawar Valley, Swat and surrounding areas up to Taxila. During this period, Buddhism was almost the state religion and as such many places of worship were established. These includes monasteries, stupas and other Buddhist institutions. There were thousands of such places throughout Gandhara. Though most of them were firstly destroyed by the Huns and secondly due to the decline of the religion through centuries, yet many sites can be seen even today. The Buddhist archaeological sites can be seen from Mankyala in Rawalpindi district to Jalalabad in Afghanistan and even beyond. The Ashoke's inscribed rocks at Shahbaz Garhi, and monasteries at Takhtbhai,. Nao Gram, But Kara, Nimo Gram, Taxila and many other places are visited by tourists from all over the world every year. Out of the stupas, the Mankyala Tope and Shingardara Stupa in Swat are probably the only ones, which exist in original and complete shape even today. One such stupa existed in the Khyber, which is known as the Sphola or Shpola Tope or stupa.
ORIGIN OF THE NAME AND LOCATION
Shpola is actually a small nullah in Tartara Range between Lakar Sar and Ghakhai Sar peaks. At the start its name is Hazarnao but when it turns south and opens out, it is called Shpola. It enters the Khyber Pass near Sultan Khel. There are some springs in this dry nullah about three miles from Sultan Khel. Near the village is Buddhist stupa on the roadside built on a high rock. This is very prominent and can be seen on the right of the road while going towards Landikotal at a distance of about five miles from Ali Masjid. The stupa got its name Shpola Tope from this very nullah.
DESCRIPTION
The Sphola Stupa is built on a rock which is about 50 feet higher than the Khyber Road. The rock is 3,350 feet above sea level. The stupa is in ruins these days but the base and about one third portion is intact. The base is circular as in most cases and must be about 60 feet in circumference it is made of stones. According to some records, the stupa remained undamaged till 1926 and had a height of 40 feet. In Khyber Pass this is the only prominent Buddhist monument. The other sites are Kafirkot ruins near Landi Khana and Ali Masjid. It is said that the British excavated many statues of Buddha from Ali Masjid site during the Second Afghan War of 1878-80. The site remains unexcavated till today which has a wealth of antiquities. In 1916, some more valuable statues were discovered near Khyber Burj.
THE STORY OF DESTRUCTION
The Shpola Tope or Khyber Tope Was bound to be destroyed due to decline of Budhism and passage of so many centuries. It is situated at a place which controls the area around. That is why, even the Mughals built .a tower. near it in the days of Aurangzeb (.RA). There is an interesting story, according to which two Maliks Ala Dad and Abdur Rauf had a feud. Malik Ala Dad of the neighbourirg village decided to make use of the Sphola Stupah height. He took position over it and started digging trenches. As luck would have it, a relic chamber was unearthed which is always there, in the stupas. Besides other valuable relics, the Malik found 60 gold coins also. Some ashes probably of Budha were also found. He naturally kept the coins and other things were destroyed unfortunately. The Malik must have left the stupa trench .afterwords but that must. have been the start of destruction of this beautiful stupa
CONCLUSION
The Sphola Stupa or Khyber Tope today stands a silent spectator on the Khyber road. Thought it is 75 percent destroyed but the base is complete. This is not only a stupa of the Budhists, it is a witness to most of the events of the famous Khyber Pass. It has seen many invaders pass by and change the shape of Indian politics and culture. Can we afford to see such an important witness vanish because of out sheer neglect?. Off course Not, It is therefore important that the stupa be preserved immediately and looked after. It will definitely add to the knowledge and interest of the Khyber Visitors from around the world.
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