THE BRITISH CEMETERY IN THE KHYBER PASS

The British Cemetery, Khyber Pass

The British annexed the Sikh Empire of the Punjab in March, .1849. The present North-West Frontier province was part of the Sikh Empire and then annexed by the British. After having settled in the valleys, the British started incursions into the tribal areas, which are mostly mountainous and inhabited, by fierce Afghan tribes. The British rule of 98 years on the Frontier was not an easy one. They remained at war with the tribes and sent many expeditions against them. Whereas the British rule left many forts, camps and pickets on the Frontier, many cemeteries were also left behind. Some of these cemeteries continue to exist till today, enclosed by broken boundary walls and dismantled grave structures within.

One such cemetery exists in the Khyber Pass which I came across during my visit on 9th May, 1994. This cemetery has only few graves of those killed in action or died of disease and drowning as is the case with other cemeteries also.

While travelling from Shagai Fort towards Ali Masjid Fort, one comes across a stonewalled enclosure near a mosque on the left of the road, about one kilometre away from Shagai. There are some trees in the vicinity. This is 'Da Gorao Adeera' as known to the local Afridis and literally meaning 'The British Cemetery'. A Khassadar Post is also established near the cemetery. The cemetery wall, made of dressed stones, is still intact. The grave rows run parallel to the road. The first row starting from the farthest has eight graves whereas there is another grave also in line with this row but at a lower place. The second row has only two graves. The remaining space would have accommodated about 30 graves but thanks to the partition of 1947, the British left and the Afridi Muslims would not bury their dead in a Christian graveyard.

The names and other particulars written on the graves are given below for record:

FIRST ROW

1st Grave: The grave is completely dismantled
2nd Grave: David Surridge, Gunner, 4th Mountain Bty, 23 Years, Died of Cholera, 14th June, 1919.
3rd Grave: It is Kacha grave. Might have been broken sometime back.
4th Grave: William Brown, Gunner, 4th Mountain Bty, Age Boy years, Died of Cholera, l6th June,1919.
5th Grave: Charles H Glough, Gunner, 4th Mountain Bty RGA, 39 Years, Died 20th June, 1919.
6th Grave: Alfred Ward, Gunner, 4th Mountain Bty RGA, Age 28 Years, Died of Cholera, 1919.
7th Grave: Frederick Ward, Cpl, 4th Mountain Bty RGA, 26 years, Died of Cholera, 21st June, 1919.
8th Grave: Brock Huest, Pte, RAS CMT, Drowned, 13th September, 1919.
9th Grave: Edwin Wellington Wyatt (at a lower place), 2nd Lieut, 4th Bty RGA, Age 28 years, Died of Cholera, 21st June 1919.

SECOND ROW

1st Grave (Rt): Thomas Cannon, Asstt Att & S&T, Age 37 years, Killed, 17th December, 1919.
2nd Grave (Lt): E W White, Asstt Surgeon, Age 37 years, Killed, 2nd October (must be 1919).

From the dates written on the graves, it seems that these Britishers died during the 3rd Afghan War 1919-20. These gunners must have positioned their guns in the same area and were mostly victims of cholera. One of the local Afridi elders, who remembers his long association with the British and other locals, met me near the cemetery. They surprised me by saying that all these Britishers were killed by the Afridis and had not died of cholera as was written on the graves. After having 'qahwa' (tea) with the Khassadars, I left them talking about the British, the Khyber Pass and the Afridi that live in it.