THE FATEHGARH FORT OF JAMRUD
GENERAL
Forts and citadels have played an important role in history. In the past, stationing forces in these forts enabled the rulers in controlling different areas and people. For this reason we find many old forts, built at strategic places, by ruling dynasties which existed in various periods of time. When the Sikhs occupied Peshawar Valley after the battle of Nowshera, they reconstructed Balahisar at Peshawar and gave it the name of Sameergarh. Similarly, Shankargarh Fort at Shabqadar, Michni Fort, Jehangira/Khairabad Fort, Kishangarh Fort, Bara (now Fort Mackeson), Bara Fort and Fatehgarh Fort at Jamrud were constructed. These satellite posts were meant to combat Mohmands, Yusufzais, Khattaks, Adamkhels and Khyber Pass Afridis and, further also, ensured the security of Peshawar.
JAMRUD
While travelling from Peshawar to the Khyber Pass, one comes across this first major town of Khyber Agency at a distance of about 10 miles. After a short travel ahead of the Hayatabad market area, one straightaway gets a glimpse of a magnificent fort and the Bab-e-Khyber. Jamrud lies on the important Khyber road, short of Qadam, which is located at the mouth of the Khyber Pass.
Dr Ahmed Hasan Dani (Peshawar Historic City of the Frontier, PP 195, 1st Edition, 1969), refers to Babar as having recorded Jamrud to be situated near a river (Rud). The name was to have connection with the legendary Persian King Jamshed of Shahnama fame. I personally believe that Jamrud is derived from Jam and Rud. As there is no perennial river or Rud, the water in the stream would flow only during Jam, meaning rain in Pashto. Thus, the town built on the banks of a seasonal stream became Jamrud with the passage of time. Even today the local tribesmen refer it only as 'Jam' in their daily conversation. While the Grand Trunk Road to Khyber was constructed by Akbar's Engineer Qasim Khan in 1586, the Khyber Railway was constructed by the British in 1925, passing through Jamrud.
THE SIKH RULE IN PESHAWAR AREA
Though the Sikhs had won the battle of Nowshera in 1823 against the Yusufzais, it was in 1834 that Han Singh Naiwa crossed the Indus River again and camped near Chamkani with 9,000 men. Dr Dani (Peshawar -- Historic City of Frontier, P 110, 1969) writes that after the occupation of Peshawar, Amir Dost Muhammad Khan of Kabul made unsuccessful attempt to occupy Peshawar in 1835. Hari Singh Naiwa advanced to Jamrud and built a fort there in 1836. Amir Dost Muhammad Khan again attacked and Han Singh was killed in the battle. He was followed by Sardar Tej Singh and General Avitable (1838-42) as governors of Peshawar. The satellite forts mentioned earlier were built by the Sikhs.
When the Sikh Empire was crumbling, Amir Dost Muhammad Khan sent an army of 12,000 under his half brother Nawab Jabbar Khan in November 1848 and took Peshawar. In March 1849, however, Punjab was annexed by the British and the forces under Sir Walter Gilbert GCB arrived in Peshawar. No battle was fought with the Afghan forces but Jamrud and surrounding area came under the British rule.
CONSTRUCTION OF THE FORT
The solitary mound, on which the present fort has been built, must have played an important role in providing observation of the area around. It must have possibly been occupied as outpost by many armies. The Mughals during the time of Akbar The Great (Dr Dani's book on Peshawar) did occupy the area but the information about building of a fort is not available. Moorcraft (Dr Dani's book) also visited the place and records the importance of the place from broken walls and large 60-square-yard tank.
The Sikhs were the first to build a major fort at Jamrud. The Sikh General Hari Singh 1aid the foundation stone of the fort in 1836 (6th Poh 1893 Vikram Samrat). The fort played an important role in the historical events after 1836. When the British annexed this area in 1849, they enlarged the fort and constructed more barracks, which are still being used.
THE FORT BUILDING
The Jamrud Fort today gives a look of a ship, having been build on a mound, overlooking the vast and open area around. Though nowadays there are many villages around the fort, but in the early days it must have enjoyed a commanding position of a unique type.
The fort can be divided into three different portions. The outer portion comprises the buildings constructed during the British rule. These are mostly to the western and eastern sides and give a rectangular to the area. The whole area is surrounded by a wall having gates leading to the interior of the fort.
The central portion is a huge square surrounded by a high mud wall. Traces of a moat all around and outside the wall are partially visible at places. Four circular bastions that protrude outwards have been built at each corner. The general pattern of the walls suggests that this was the original Mud Fort of the Sikhs similar to other forts on the Frontier. A gate leads to the interior from the eastern side, which also has a domed white room along with small enclosure near it. This is the Samadah of General Hari Singh Nalwa and will be discussed at a later stage. After entering the mud fort, one comes across yet another fort wall enclosing an irregular circle. The wall has eight bastions of various sizes in it and is made of mud and stones. Inside this enclosure are some rooms as well as a high red coloured building visible from a distance. This building is enclosed by a stone and brick wall with four circular bastions at the corners. The whole fort building gives an impressive look from a distance.
There is a huge well inside the fort, which is a masterpiece of past engineering. It has been dug by cutting stones and is very deep. It must have been the only source of water for the garrison in the early days.
All the walls in the fort are crowned by peep holes for facilitating fire and observation of the occupants.
SAMADAH OF GENERAL HARI SINGH NALWA
The Sikh General and Governor of Peshawar, Hari Singh Nalwa was killed near Jamrud Fort by the tribesmen. The Samadah of General Hari Singh Nalwa is a white-domed square room, which is very conspicuous. There used to be a small cavity in the floor of the room indicating the place of cremation of the late General. It has now been filled up. There is a marble slab in outer side of the eastern wall of the room. The inscription on the slab reads as follows:
Tomb of the Late Sikh General Hari Singh Nalwa cremated 30th April 1837 Commemorated by Guru Gujumal Kapur of Peshawar dated September 1892. (Also written in Gurmukhi) 2nd Yadavindra Patiala, November 1944.
There used to be a garden and Burj Hari Singh near the present Islamia College, Peshawar. The garden and the Burj do not exist anymore but the name of the area, 'Burj Hari Singh', is still used by the people. The Burj was constructed by Hari Singh and it was here that he fell during the battle against Afghan Prince of Muhammad Akbar Khan’s forces.
OLD BADGES IN THE FORT AREA
The Jamrud Fort has remained under occupation of Sikh, Afghan, the British and Pakistan Army units throughout its history. Some of the units of the British Indian Army and Pakistan Army have constructed their badges on the walls in the fort area. Some of these are now broken. The unit names that I could record during my visit on 09 May 1994 are given below:
THE FORT ENVIRONS
While going from Peshawar to the Khyber Pass, one travels through the Jamrud Bazaar and the Bab-e-Khyber. The latter, a magnificent gate, was constructed in 1964. Many marble slabs have been erected near the gate, on which the history of invading armies and races travelling through the Khyber have been written. The tourists can obtain a lot of information before entering the historic Khyber Pass. Whereas the fort stands to the right side of the gate, the Jamrud town is towards the left of it. The Tomb (Ziarat) of Hazrat Wali Baba (RA) is situated in the town area. The locals also talk of a Bara Dan (old building) in the middle of a huge pond nearby. The building, they say, stood till recent years before its ultimate destruction. The pond could well be the tank seen by Moorcraft during his visit.
CONCLUSION
Jamrud is today a busy town having many modern buildings and facilities. The Jamrud Fort and Bab-e-Khyber attract many tourists. The bazaars with Jawans (soldiers) of Khyber Rifles, Khyber Levies, Khassadars and the armed tribesmen give a Central Asian colour to this historic town on the road to Khyber.