THE KHAJURI PLAIN OF THE AFRIDIS

INTRODUCTION

The Khyber Pass enjoys a universal appeal because of the role it played in shaping the history and culture of the Indo-Pak sub continent. It was an avenue, which provided many a people and invader an access to India, so pronounced and frequent were the movements to and from that ultimately the civilisation in this part of the world could not remain unaffected. Much has been written about the pass and the dominant tribe of the Afridis living in it. The Khyber Pass just a part within Khyber Agency which, as a whole, comprise of Bazaar Valley, Chora Valley, Bara Valley, Tirah and a vast plain known as Khajuri Plain. The last is considered to be common property of Afridis and it is unlikely that Afridi will not make a mention of it during course of normal conversation. Since a majority of the Afridi families own at least one winter dwelling in this historic plain, a reference to it becomes inevitable consequently.

THE ORIGIN OF THE NAME KHAJURI

Khajuri literally means date palm and the plain was once an area that had palms in some numbers. Even in North Waziristan there exists a village called Khajuri as well as British Fort having a profuse plantation of these trees. In Khajuri Plain, however, not many of these trees can be noticed. It is said that the whole of this area was a dry tract of land except for the muddy Bara River flowing through it. The source of water for entire area, was a well, struck near the Kohi village of today, 'Kohi' actually means a 'Wall'. The village is situated near the Dogra Post beyond 11am Gudar. Travellers from Bara Fort onwards depended on it for supply of water during this journey. Today, the well and the Khajur trees are both non-existent. Anyway some Khajur trees near this particular well gave the present name of the Plain

THE PLAIN

The Khajuri Plain is a vast tract of country starting from Bara Fort up to Karawal in the West, at the foot of the Tirah hills. The Plain, approximately about 15 x 15 sq kilometres is roughly bounded by Jamrud, Kacha Garhi and Besai ridges in the north, Spina Thana (Airnal Chabutra) on Peshawar-Kohat Road in the south, Sheikhan and Bara Fort in the east and Karawal and Ghund Ghar in the west. River Bara after its entry in the west bisects the plain into two till it reaches the outskirts of Bara Fort. As a whole, the plain used to be a barren one till about mid-1970s. Only grass, bushes and 'Kikar' trees were its natural flora. It was sparsely populated due to the non-availability of water. Later, Bara Irrigation Scheme brought a revolution in the area and caused every Afridi family to bid for a settlement here. Currently, irrigation channels, agricultural fields, trees, roads and many settlements that have sprung up have changed the entire complexion of the once desolate Khajuri Plain.
The Khajuri Plain is connected to Chora Valley by a pass known as 'Khajuri Kandao' located in the area of Kambarkhel clan. It is frequented by migratory tribes for their journey in either direction. Another feature of the plain is the Besai Ridges, which are offshoots of the hills in the west and run towards the east. These lie north of modern Hayatabad township/Bara Market from where they are clearly visible. The ridges have Karappa Pass at the foot of Ghund Ghar while Sarngha-Khai is in the centre. Bara Fort lies on the eastern fringes of the Khajuri Plain. This marked the limit of the Sikh and British controlled area till the time the British occupied most of the Khajuri Plain in 1930s.

Jamrud Fort

Samadh Jamrud Fort

Samadh Hari Singh at Jamrud Fort

Sun-Dial Clock, Khyber Rifles Mess, Landikotal

The Bara Fort

Bab-e-Khyber

The Khyber Pass

Unit Badges, Khyber Pass

DISTRIBUTION OF KHAJURI PLAIN

The Afridis distributed the areas occupied by them as any other Pathan tribe would have done. Though there was no proper settlement, yet the area was distributed among various clans according to their strength. Some of the plain area though roughly distributed was spared and earmarked as a 'Shamilat' (Common Property) and common grazing ground. Khajuri Plain, too, was nominated as a common property for grazing and winter dwelling purposes. The Afridi tribe has eight clans, namely Adamkhel, Akakhel, MalakdinkheI, Sipah, Kmarai or Karnarkhel, Kambarkhel, KukikheI and ZakhakheL All these clans share the Afridi Tirah and have their separate areas. Similarly all the clans have a share in the Khajuri Plain. The land distribution is made as under:

• Sipah: They were given the area that now comprises of 11am Gudar and the modem Bara market.
• Kambarkhel: Area around Besai Ridges mainly to the south and east. The area also extends up to Ghund Ghar Tangi Sar (near Ghora) and Sur Dand (near Fort Salop and SW of Besai).
• Karnaral or Karnarkhel: This is a small clan and was given the area in the western corner of the plain and lying between Mamai Sar and Shin Kamar Pass beyond Fort Salop. Their area also includes Tauda China.
• Malakdinkhel: Their area is sandwiched between Sipah and Kambarkhel. They are almost in the centre of the plain around Dogra Post.
• AkakheI: The Akakhel received the area south of Bara up to Airnal Chabutra. This is a bigger area and Bara River flows through it.
• Kukikhel: The Kukikhel were given the area southwest of Jamrud adjoining the modern Hayatabad Colony.
• Zakhakhel: The Zakhakhel do not possess a large area in Khajuri Plain though some of them also live south of Kamarai area. It is said that as they hailed from a faraway area, they were given a share in Bazaar Valley in exchange of property in Khajuri Plain.
• Adamkhel: The Adamkhel clan lives in Darra, Kohat. These tribes are placed under the Kohat administration and as such are politically cut off from the Khyber Afridis. They got land in Tirah in exchange of land in Khajuri Plain. It is said that this land was again exchanged by them with Orakzais.

It is very difficult today to clearly demarcate and point out the area belonging to different clans. When the Bara Irrigation System began operational in mid-1970s, there was an influx for the plain. Occupation of as much of the common property as could be possible was fully resorted to. Earlier, in winters these clans used to stay in cave dwellings dotting the plain before returning to Tirah in summers. Lately their settlement here is on a permanently basis. They do have houses in Tirah, which still remains deprived of a road or other modern facilities. Their close proximity to Peshawar and availability of trade opportunities in Bara made them settle in Khajuri Plain permanently. The clans of the area have many land disputes amongst themselves.

OCCUPATION OF KHAJURI PLAIN BY THE BRITISH

The Sikhs had extended their control up to line Jamrud Fort-Bara Fort-Aimal Chabutra and Kishangarh Fort running from north to south. The area west of this line was inhabited by independent Afridi tribe. When the British came in 1859, they also restricted themselves to the same line. Regarding the affairs of the Khyber, the British and Afridis concluded many agreements. In 1861, the Afridi clans agreed to share joint responsibility for maintenance of order in the area. Till about 1930 the British had despatched many expeditions against various Afridi clans with a view to dominate the area and its inhabitant. These passed through the Khajuri Plain also but would always withdraw east of Bara Fort. However, the British found an excuse to occupy the plains on 23rd April 1930, the British army opened fire on the 'Red Shirts' in Qissa Khawani Bazaar, Peshawar. Many fell martyred.

It was also rumoured that three Afridis on visit to Peshawar in connection with receipt of allowances had also fallen victims to the firing. The rumour caused deep resentment against the British. Their sentiments were aroused to the highest pitch. On 2 May 1930, after a meeting held in Bagh Masjid, Tirah, they decided to send a 'lashkar' (force) to attack Peshawar. For this purpose, a strength varying between 27,000 duly armed assembled in the plain and Spin Kamar, Malakdinkhel and Kambarkhel wore the chief initiators of these opinions. By 30 May small parties started moving toward Peshawar along Bara River. On 5th June 1930, they contacted British forces on the western outskirts of Peshawar Cantonment. Fighting ensured between the two. It lasted for four days before the 'lashkar' dispersed. 17 Poona House was the first to be fired upon. At 11 a.m. on the day the initial contact had been established. Risalpur Flying Column consisting of Guides, 20 Lancers and Sqn of 15/19 Hussars reached Bara Fort. This composite group WRS able to disperse the Afridis. On 5 Aug, another 'lashkar' assembled and it attacked on 13 August 1930. Fighting continued for about six days causing loss of life and property. Before the 'lashkar' dispersed on 20 May, the British even employed artillery against it. Despite much fighting and general unrest about 250 Afridis including two old women managed to reach Peshawar City. From Nowshera Bde, Fordham's Force was also despatched. The Supply Depot in cantt was also attacked. A Rajput Cavalry failed to evacuate its casualties and left the dead and wounded outside Peshawar City. The second 'lashkar' had been organised by a Young Khilfatist Party, against the wishes of the elders. The Afridis reaction had forced the British to live within the safety of Balahisar Fort at night. Sir Edwin Pears, Chief Commissioner Peshawar recommended to the Govt of India the occupation of Tirah. On 20 September 1930 the government formed a committee to examine the same matter in light of the recommendations. The needful was done and proposals were duly submitted to the government in January 1931, a committee decided against the occupation of Tirah since it considered it a politically unsound proposition. However, occupation of the Khajuri Plain instead was recommended as a viable option. On December 1931, official sanction was accorded. General Coleridge launched occupation operations in full earnest. The same lasted till 31 December 1931, consequently roads were constructed including the establishment of permanent military posts at Fort Salop and other places. On 3rd October 1931, as a result of an agreement signed between the British and the Afridis at Jamrud the British army actions were terminated. M Saida Khan Shinwari in his book, The Khyber ---A Historical Sketch, makes a mention of the 12 verses that the famous politician, journalist and poet Zafar Ali Khan wrote on the occupation of Khajuri Plain. Even Mohatma Gandhi took up the Khajuri Plain issue during his talks with Lord Irwin. There were even rumours that the Viceroy had threatened to resign unless his policy of occupation was adopted. This was revealed by MC Brown MP in the House of Commons during discussion on Khajuri. It is interesting to note that the first commandant of Pakistan Military Academy, Brigadier Francis Ingall (Retd), had participated in the charge on Karawal as a young officer of 6 Lancers (Bengal Lancers). Fort Salop was named after the King's Shropshire Light Infantry, a British unit which consolidated the area of Karawal, etc. During the operations, three brigade size camp were established at Bara Fort, Karawal and Mirikhel. Field Marshall Lord Birdwood C-in-C India also visited troops at Bara Fort. A medal, 'North West Frontier Campaign 1930-31' was also issued after the occupation of Khajuri Plain.

The occupation of Khajuri by the British took a permanent shape and it continued to exist till the partition in 1947. Till then besides other activities Fort Salop, Fort Jhansi and Fort Milward were also constructed. Milward was incidentally one of the famous commanding officers of the battalion in which the writer had served after his commissioning in the army. Known as 'Tirwanja', it is a famous Frontier Force Battalion. Many Indian Army units were stationed in these forts and their names are written on walls of various rooms and barracks. After partition, the army was relieved the duties by the Frontier Corps units. Commonly known as 'militia' the units are stationed there. Since the personnel recruited are drawn from the same tribes, there is harmony and peace in the area. The area has changed and will keep on changing due to new settlements and markets but the name of Khajuri Plain will always live in the history and traditions of the Afridis. It is now being looked after by the Mahsud Scouts.

BIBLIOGRAPHY

Gazetteer of the Military Report on the Tribal Country between The Khyber and The Kurram, Delhi, 1927.

• The Khyber ---A Historical Sketch ---by M Saida Khan Shinwari.

• Interview ---Subedar Major Khan Sharaf, Ali Masjid, 21-22 July 1991.

• Personal visits to the area.

• Afridi Pathan (Urdu) by Allah Bakhsh Yusufi, Karachi, 1985.

• North West Frontier by Arthur Swinson, 1967.

• Peshawar District Gazetteerr, 1931.

• The Last of The Bengal Lancers by Francis Ingall, 1988.